There’s a lot more to Digboi than just oil

Nivedita Khandekar

Many had a question in school geography and/or a quiz on general knowledge — “Which place in India has the oldest oil well?” or “Where in India is the oldest oil refinery?” And, most knew the answer by heart: Digboi. Unfortunately, that’s the only piece of information most had about this tiny place in northeastern India. It is barely 30 km away from Tinsukia, a big town in eastern Assam. From Tinsukia, head towards east and right outside the city limits, one is greeted by lush green tea gardens on both sides. A tiny village every now and then that has houses with sloping tin roofs and a neatly maintained courtyard breaks the monotony of the many shades of greens of paddy fields and tea gardens. After a while, one sees the boards announcing the place with the historical oil well.

Digboi’s main road is no different than that of any other typical Indian town with familiar shops lining the arterial road — mobile repair and recharge shops, pharmacy, toy shops, grocery stores, a school here and a roadside restaurant there. One can’t miss the ‘Indian Oil Corporation Assam Oil Division’ boards plastered all over in all shapes and sizes.

Oil museum

And just then, one comes across a simple flex board: Digboi Centenary Museum — An unforgettable walk through 100 years of oil. This exceptional museum has two parts: one is an open-air installation portion and the second is an elegant enclosure of all things associated with the oil industry since the last century.

Most important in the open air is the first oil well — Discovery Well No. 1. It is out of use for many decades now (flow ceased in 1927, final abandonment in 1932). Along with the oil wells, coke chutes and a steam engine (it retired in 1986, the board beside it tells us) used to move compressors and vacuum pumps at kerosene treating unit are showcased. And, there is also a replica of an erstwhile Assam Oil Company-run petrol pump, complete with mannequins of a neatly dressed English couple and a petrol pump attendant.

The inside halls have a vast collection of things, photos and posters documenting the Digboi oil centenary. Apart from all things related to the oil industry, there are these odd things on display too — for instance, cricket related stuff used by the English and, of all the things, an iron chain used in a toilet of one of the old bungalows.

Town’s history

Digboi is home to the first oil well, not just in India but also across Asia, from way back in 1867. Just seven years after Elvin L Drake dug the world’s first oil well at Pennsylvania (USA) in 1859. In 1867, work had started for a railway line in the area. Wooden sleepers were needed for the rail track, so timber was lugged by elephants from the surrounding forests. One day, one of the elephants had his legs dripping with oil. The mahouts re-traced the steps to find the oil bubbling out and spreading on the floor of the jungle. It was a day that etched Digboi’s place on the oil map permanently. It was in 1891 that they started systematic oil drilling, and in 1901 came the oil refinery.

Today’s Digboi

Even when Digboi has become synonymous with oil, there is more to this tony township. Of the many other interesting things, most important perhaps is the World War II vintage war cemetery. Built and maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, the cemetery is on a sloping hillside on the outskirts of the town. Here, a sense of gloom descends on the visitors, especially after reading the epitaphs for the unknown soldiers who fought in the toughest of circumstances, and many of them died as young as 20. Neat rows of memorial graves with names, regiment names and the respective symbols are etched on the stones amid a manicured lawn.

According to the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, during World War II, Assam was an operational area of the Burma campaign. On the road to Ledo, Digboi was on the lines of communication, and a military hospital was established there. The Digboi War Cemetery was started for burials from the hospital and at the end of the War, it had 70 burials. Later, the Army Graves Service brought in further graves from burial grounds in Panitola, Jorhat, Margherita, Tinsukia and Ledo, where permanent maintenance could not be assured. The cemetery now contains 197 Commonwealth and 3 non-Commonwealth burials of the Second World War.

The place that has been buzzing since the British first set shop here has a cosmopolitan history and geography to match it. On the hillock is a more than 100-year-old British era church; there is also an Assamese Namghar and the beautiful Digboi Buddha Vihar, started by bhikkhus (monks) from Thailand in 1957. The Buddha Vihar houses a sleeping Buddha painted in bright golden colours. And then, there are several modern temples, mosques and even churches.

Army Cantonment and oil company area have several heritage bungalows. An 18-hole golf course, albeit with restrictions on entry, is another delight. But whatever it may be — oil wells, oil museum, tea gardens, Buddha Vihar, War Cemetery — everything has the distinct stamp of the colonial era. Digboi packs a lot for the small size. The best part is the lush greenery almost round the year and the dense surrounding jungles despite this being an oil town.