Jewel me up

Gurnaaz Kaur

Gorgeous neckpieces, fancy earrings, stylish bracelets, and finger rings... the latest jewellery trends are out and it’s time for you to ride the wave. Giving you a quickglance at all that has commanded the spotlight this season and how you can incorporate it in your collection; from the new take on hoop earrings, thick chains, delicate gold pieces to the classic and bold jewellery that was on the runway to you.

Ageless link

With moods like boho-chic and ‘handmade’ being popular in Spring Summer 2020 (SS20), the chunky chain or the chain link trend is here to stay. “A chain link neckwear is easy to style with a bohemian gown or a structured top, it’s versatile and gives the overall look a bold uplift,” says Deepshikha Gupta, senior VP design, Melorra. “A chain link bracelet is a statement maker, especially if the links are large and stylish. A choker with oversized chainlinks can be stylishly layered with a lariat, an adjustable long chain but in itself it’s quite a statement maker.”

Chain link in pumped-up size may be the thing for the world of fashion but Neety Singh of Neety Singh Jewellery says it is actually the easiest to incorporate in your everyday life. “Any old pendants, lockets or even gifts from your grandmother’s jewellery chest can be layered on your chains. The chain links can be layered up for a range of occasions. These are extremely versatile and can be paired with both Indian and western looks.”

Let these dangle

Moving on to the staples in earrings for 2020, for Tanya M Sood, founder and creative director of House of Aynat (HOA), the 1970s-inspired earrings with geometric shapes are a must-have. “These are the most versatile jewellery category because these show much more. These frame your face, so from an intricately crafted pair of studs to a long pair of statement earrings, these are definitely pivotal in tying your look together.”

In a talk for must-haves, diamonds can’t be missed. “Diamond studs have been a forever thing for any woman’s jewellery wardrobe. These studs can be for whenever and wherever, day or night, work, school or special occasions. And you never need to take these off!” says Ramesh Kalyanaraman, executive director, Kalyan Jewellers, He says that a pair of discreet gold hoops in your armoury ensures that you can be uber glamorous even on a jeans and t-shirt day.

Highlight the neckline

Talking of necklaces, be it old and antique or new and sleek, independent or layered, these compliment your clothes and add that something extra to your neckline. Chunky necklaces in all its forms is the defining trend to invest in. “I would suggest investing in big bulky floral statement necklaces,” says Tanya.

If you are thinking of who should wear what, we’ve got you covered. “Oval faces can wear almost any shape or style of necklace, provided the design is in proportion to the individual body type. However, for a round face, one can go for large focal components which create a ‘V’, avoiding chokers, collars and short length neckpieces. However, one with heart-shaped faces can opt for chokers and short curvy precious stone necklaces to highlight the appearance of the jawline and look more vibrant,” recommends Ramesh.

Without keeping in mind the face cut or body type, you can rely on your ‘best friend.’ “Diamonds compliment every face type and outfit. These are easy to wear and you can dress these up or down. Plus diamonds are an elegant edition that can add oomph to your ensemble,” he adds.

Create your own statement

Statement jewellery lovers, here’s another one for you. A bracelet that cuffs your wrist. This time around, pick a minimal dainty chain-link design. “As for bracelets, I’ve loved the stacking trend that’s all the rage today. This is not just limited to fun and semi-precious jewellery. I always say, if you handle fine jewellery as fun, you suddenly see a range of possibilities that make these more wearable,” says Neety.

By the way, bangle bracelet never seems to go out of style. “Wear it alone or stack these up by mixing and matching multi-tones like platinum, rose gold, dull gold and yellow gold bangles,” opines Ramesh.

Slip it on your ring

“Solitaire rings will rule the trend this year, along with American diamond and silver. I’d pair floral statement rings with a pastel coloured outfit, which is perfect for brunch or office wear and for a night party,” is Tanya’s piece of advice on the piece of jewellery that’s first-love for most woman.

But statement rings are not just for cocktail parties. “A cocktail ring, be it studded with diamonds or coloured stones, adds sparkle and wow factor to any look,” says Ramesh.

But every ring tells a story, so be sure of the motifs. “Vintage motifs, animals, florals and hearts remain the favourites. Bows, poppies, fringes will be seen in plenty,” assures Deepshikha Gupta.

The melting pot

Rose gold, yellow gold, white, gold, silver, platinum…which metal to choose from the long list? “We are consistently noticing an appetite among the urban youth for white gold, platinum and rose gold jewellery. The subtle tones of these metals make jewellery pieces versatile and adaptable for festive as well as regular use. Gold is always looked at as a great investment,” comments Ramesh. He says two tone rings and platinum jewellery is witnessing great sale, too.

According to Neety, gold is at its peak, not only in terms of its price but also for its usability, versatility and international wearability. “Personally, yellow gold is my all-time favourite, anywhere in the world,” she says.

Agreeing about the rose gold and mixed metal trend, Deepshika affirms a lot of silver will be in vogue this year.

Play with colour

Colour will be big; be ready for some experimentation on this front as well. “One can expect to see a lot of gemstones in various colours and mixed enamels as well. Colours like indigo blue, lilac, sharp red, sugar pink and orange will be sprinkled all over. Multi-colour rainbow hues are popular too,” says Deepshika.

For some, colours mean life and that’s the case for both Neety and Tanya. Says Tanya, “I love playing around with colours all the time. Over the years, I’ve experimented with colourful gems, be it in Indian shapes that incorporate navratan or rainbow bracelets that can be stacked or paired with similar rainbow rings.” Neety explains the importance of colours in the aesthetic sensibilities.

“India has always been synonymous with colour. The muted colour and monochrome palettes are something we’ve adopted from the West. While that has a charm of its own, I personally believe that it’s coloured jewellery that provides that little pick-me-up for any monochromatic look. My first collection consisted of blue, green and orange. It does not get more colourful than that. Many people wondered if it would be over the top but the reality turned out to be an extremely stylish and chic addition to muted clothes. Colour can never truly go out of fashion in India,” says Neety.

The new-age consumers have their eyes on jewellery designs dominated by colour, says Ramesh. Among the trends making a comeback, navratnas are on top. “Precious stones aside, there is growing demand (and awareness) towards gemstones and semi-precious stones like tourmaline, quartz, tanzanite.”

The leitmotif

Shapes are the new designs, really! “We’ve loved playing around with geometric shapes, be it round or rectangles. I love wearing a statement round medallion paired with sleek chains that create a beautiful contrast. Round works very well with the Indian subcontinent, with allusions to the chaand whereas, in the west, we see a lot of abstract and fluid shapes. I love to play with that trend in diamonds. With jadau, I stick to conventional, traditional shapes that are inherently Indian,” adds Neety.

“Popular gold jewellery motifs are inspired by traditional and mythological symbols. These include intricate designs of peacocks, swans, lotus flowers and bejewelled and hooded serpents,” explains the executive director of Kalyan Jewellers.

Traditional with a contemporary twist

‘Mix and Match’ colours in metals: To match the vibrancy of the occasion, add a pop of colour to enhance any look and match the tone of your outfits, says design head, Tanishq Jewellery. Here are some more tips from the jewellery brand:

Multi-layered jewellery will be huge: One of the biggest trends for this year is multiple layering of the neckpieces. One can accessorise a simple attire by adorning handcrafted chokers with multiple mid-length or long-length necklaces to create a majestic look. 

This elaborate trend is sure to make a lasting statement for all those dazzling festive looks.

Traditional chic with kundan & polki: Rewind to the era of Maharanis and feel the royalty with oversized gold sets in kundan and polki.

Kundan and polki jewellery has escalated up the fashion ladder, and it is sure capturing hearts.

The age-old polki finds its space again in contemporary designs.

One jewellery, many styles: 

From long earrings to studs, from heavy necklaces that can be broken down into chokers to hath-phools that also double up as bracelets and chokers.

Make a multitude of your jewellery pieces work extra hard with two-in-one styles.

Think chandeliers or jhumkas for maximum impact during evenings, and its detachable stud with a kurta set or with an elegant saree will add to the perfect look. The multi- utility trend is for the new-age woman who loves wearing jewellery, but doesn’t like repeating.

Jewellery meets architecture and landscape:

Discover jaw-dropping gorgeous designs and amaze yourself amid the similarities between the two worlds: architecture and landscape with jewellery. Architecture-inspired jewellery is a huge trend this year. Impressive landscapes inspired by the beauty of Indian cities and architecture highlighting finely grooved domes and elegant arches. It has inspired fashion and jewellery design for centuries.

Who doesn’t like having a hand-crafted sculpture inspired piece adorned around their neck?

Pearl: The classic

Pearls are known for their elegance and chic but the much-valued jewel, along with its contemporary shells, is conveying a message today. “In times of climate change and sustainability, natural and recyclable materials are big this season.

A lot of designers have pledged to reduce their carbon footprint and become ‘zero’ waste companies. Materials like pearls, shells, wood, raffia, etc. will be used extensively to create environment-friendly products. “When these materials are paired with gold and diamonds, their intrinsic value is elevated considerably,” shares Tanya. Neety vouches for their classic timelessness and the unending range of designs that pearls can be used in. Says Neety “At one time, it was stately single strings that exuded an unmatched grace. Today, these come in more colours and strings.”