An uncharted sylvan land

Manisha Gangahar

Offbeat, certainly, but quite alluring. Turning away from the regular tourist track in Kashmir, through the town of Sopore, is the drive into a very exquisitely rustic valley of Lolab. That it is a block of Kupwara district — the backward frontier district — might be a little ruffling but locals would help settle any fear in no time. Almost a two-hour drive from Srinagar, Lolab valley is well connected to the state’s capital city, and it could be just a day visit and back. But a better plan would be to go ahead, right up to the last village on this side of the LoC and return by another route.

Locally known as Wadi-e-Lolab and traversed by the Lahwal stream, the valley is a treat of nature. Forests of pine, deodar and fir, orchards of apples and apricots, fields of rice and gushing hotsprings, with Himalayas looking down from the horizon, one could just wander endlessly. A quick halt at Seemab valley, at the entry point of Lolab, serves as a preface to the narrative that shall unfold. A natural graphic splendour and enduringly spurting water of Daal Kul is quite welcoming. The narrow road, though nicely carpeted, twirls around the wooden, humble abodes of villagers. A kiosk opened in one of them would offer the basics to nibble and the special loon chai of Kashmir.

A query to a passerby would surely lead to a chat — where from, how long, what all seen — and finally directions to the next spot. A discerning traveller ought to make the most of such conversations picked up by the road, for along with vital information comes indigenous tales, some true, some perhaps not — Lolab is named after Maharaja Lolo, and there are caves that open into Russia. While the former could be a dry history note, the latter whets the appetite for the ‘unexplored’.

Just a wonderland tale, or perhaps a local myth, but the caves of Kalaroos certainly exist as one drives up a steep, narrow, rugged village road that ends at a meadow. A climb of another 3 km on foot brings one to a colossal monumental rock called Sattbaran. The seven doors, as it means in Kashmiri, are clearly chalked out, though not more than 3 ft in height, but there is no entry. The architectural piece, half-buried, is a ruin, yet a marvel, with more than one fable wrapped around it. For some, the seven doors lead to seven routes to Russia; for others, it is a reminder of the past when Pandavas travelled through these landscapes, and there are a few who say it is the debris of an ancient Pattan temple. Nevertheless, it is the awe-striking structure that stands alone and the idyllic Lolab is spread across.

A walk ahead into the Madmadav jungles leads to the Kalaroos caves. Nobody knows where does the other side open, or if it opens at all. Could there be water bodies inside? But standing just at the entrance, the cool breeze and a peculiar sound leave you wondering. Again, there are stories of people who have tried to discover the way through the caves but the mystery remains.

The return to less perplexing landmarks ends at Chandi Gham, a fascinating camping site amid the lush forests. Trekking and mountain biking are distractions for the more adventure-loving. A few kilometres away from Chandi Gham is another peculiar spot, Dooruswani, which offers a glimpse into the innate lifestyle of villagers, contended in their thatched-rood houses.

The Lolab valley may not be as majestic and overwhelming but it excels in idyllic and sylvan beauty — land of love and beauty, as it has often been referred to by poets and writers.