A musical safari

Krishnaraj Iyengar

Kenya’s Masai Mara is a rendezvous with the big five (lion, cheetah, rhino, elephant and buffalo). But the ‘sixth of the five’ is one of the country’s lesser-explored treasures, its music!

As guttural chants rise from the silence of the Mara, a flash of bright red emerges in stunning contrast to the blue and brown. Draped in red robes and exquisite indigenous jewellery, groups of dancers from Kenya’s ancient Masai Tribe mesmerise international visitors with their legendary ‘Lion Dance’.

Originally a clan of lion hunters, the rhythmic grunting symbolises the lion’s roar. In a simple, yet evocative ceremonial dance, the Adumu or high jump takes the cake. While the men of the Masai village take turns to jump, the one who jumps the highest traditionally wins a girl! The main vocalist or Olayanrani sings Namba, the principle theme of the song composed in the Ma language.

Every song is based on a call and response and the rhythm it follows is called Laleyio. While some decorate the song with open-throated sounds, some dance holding clubs, spears and sticks. It is believed that while Africa is the haven of musical instruments, the Masais employ none.

“The human voice is the greatest instrument. We can carry it anywhere without it occupying any space, and we don’t have to tune it” explains an elderly chief musician.

Apart from their voices, the Masais use just one other instrument, the kudu (type of an antelope) horn. Usually long and curved, the raw, deep strains of kudu horn possess an unexplained mysticism.

While spontaneous participation of visitors is encouraged by the Masais, the women of the village walk in circles singing heart-rending folk songs.

Along with the rich music of the Luo tribe, gospel music and many popular streams like pop, hip-hop, reggae and jazz, the music of Mombasa enlivens the spirit. Mombasa’s catchy Taarab music enthrals with its Arabic, Swahili and even, Indian influences. Catchy rhythms, awe-inspiring melodies and foot-thumping dances make Taarab a pure treat. Singers like Zuhura Swaleh and Juma Bhalo, who incorporated several Indian nuances, remain Mombasa’s all-time musical legends.

Kenya’s traditional markets offer a kaleidoscope of musical instruments right from harps, animal hide drums, rattles, cute artefacts and wall-hangings.