Heritage status: Pul Kanjri, the 'Taj Mahal' of Punjab, losing its sheen

Neha Saini

Tribune News Service

Amritsar, December 15

If the Taj Mahal stands as a symbol of love for the world, Pul Kanjri has a similar status, if not less, for the people of Punjab. The hauntingly beautiful Pul Kanjri, situated a few kilometres away from the India-Pakistan border at Wagah, has an equally interesting story behind its existence, the one that makes it the most popular tourist destination for travellers. Built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, as a bridge on a canal, while crossing the Ravi, Pul Kanjri, also called Pul Mooran, was built as a symbol of love that Maharaja Ranjit Singh was said to have for Mooran Sarkar.

Mooran was a Muslim nautch girl, who used to perform for Maharaja at the Baradari of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, halfway between Amritsar and Lahore. It is said once she was unable to cross the canal over Ravi and lost her silver footwear. She later refused to perform for him and that’’s when he decided to built a structure that later became the abode for the star crossed lovers. Pul Kanjri was named as nautch girls were called Kanjri in Punjabi. Later, its name was changed to Pul Mooran.

Its history might have begun with a love story, but Pul Kanjri became an important centre for trade in later years of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s regime. Post Partition, the structure was captured by the Pakistani army during the Indo-Pak wars of 1965 and 1971, but was recaptured by the Indian Army later. The age-old structure might have lost its sheen but it still stands as an example of the legacy of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s glorious reign.

The ‘Baradari’, used as a home stay for Maharaja while travelling from Amritsar to Lahore, has been conserved and renovated, while other structures, some in deteriorated condition, have been left as such. It has 12 gates, a vast courtyard, that was used for cross-border cultural programmes till a few years ago, and a pond nearby that is now maintained by the Tourism Department.

Some of the frescoes of the Hindu deities and Guru Nanak Dev with Bhai Bala and Bhai Mardana are still intact, however, most of the structures have been whitewashed in the name of heritage conservation. It attracts a good tourist footfall, especially the ones coming back from Wagah after watching the retreat ceremony. Due to the history and story behind its origins, Pul Kanjri has also become the most popular location for pre-wedding shoots for couples. 

The legend behind it

• Built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, as a bridge on a canal, while crossing the Ravi, Pul Kanjri, also called Pul Mooran, was built as a symbol of love that the Maharaja was said to have for Mooran Sarkar
• Mooran was a Muslim nautch girl, who used to perform at the Baradari of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, halfway between Amritsar and Lahore. It is said that once she was unable to cross the canal over Ravi and lost her silver footwear. She later refused to perform and that’s when he decided to built a structure that later became the abode for the lovers. Pul Kanjri was named as nautch girls were called Kanjri in Punjabi. Later, its name was changed to Pul Mooran
• Pul Kanjri became an important centre for trade in later years of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s regime. Post Partition, the structure was captured by the Pakistani army during the 1965 and 1971 wars, but was recaptured by the Indian Army later. The age-old structure might have lost its sheen but it still stands as an example of the legacy of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s glorious reign