The flame of faith

Krishnaraj Iyengar

They battled the fierce waves of the Arabian Sea, carrying with them the sacred fire of their ancient faith, protecting it from the strongest winds and tides until they reached the welcoming shores of India more than 1,300 years ago. When Jadav Rana, the then monarch of Sanjan in Gujarat, received them, they mixed milk and sugar and vowed to blend with India’s society and culture, just like the two do. Ever since, the Zoroastrians or Parsis, India’s miniscule minority, have been an integral and indispensible part of India’s history.

Fleeing the Arab invasion of Iran after the fall of the great Sassanian Empire, they made India their home, adapted to local customs and even made Gujarati their lingua franca. While the community in India dwindles, its members still continue to uphold the age-old faith of their Holy Prophet Zarathushtra or ‘Zoroaster’, founded in ancient Iran.

Settled mainly along coastal Gujarat and coastal Maharashtra, the Parsis are hard to spot on a crowded city street. A few areas in Mumbai though still retain the quaintness of old Parsi homes, the fragrance of benzoin ‘loban’ every evening and the irresistible flavour of traditional dhansaak and lagan nu custard during their weddings. Among the most prominent symbols of the Zoroastrian faith are, however, its grand old fire temples. Few in number, they are marvels of India’s Parsi history.

As per tradition, the entry of non-Zoroastrians is forbidden into Indian fire temples. All the same, the towering exteriors of what are generally referred to as Agiyaari or Atash Kadeh in Persian speak volumes about the faith and its teachings. Most fire temples have a creamish façade with the Faravar or Farohar, the symbol of Zoroastrianism that represents its three pillars — Humt, Hukht and Hvaresht or good thoughts, words and deeds. They often bear the name of the fire temple in Gujarati and English. Many even have a triangular thatched roof and a spacious compound.

There are three kinds of fire temples determined by the grade of consecration of the sacred fire or atash that it houses. Atash Behram or Fire of Victory is the highest grade, followed by Atash Aadaran or Fire of Fires and Atash Dadgah. Those living close to fire temples can hear bells ringing nine times, spreading vibrations of calm.

Inside, it is said that there are various chambers like the sanctorum housing the sacred fire where priests perform prayer rituals and tend to it all the time, keeping it ever-alive. Pure sandalwood sticks are offered by the devout to the atash.

While the Atash Kadeh-e-Yazd or the Fire Temple of Yazd, an Atash Behram, is of great historic importance to Zoroastrians, India’s holiest is the Iran Shah Atash Behram in Udvada, Gujarat. Legends attribute many miracles to this place. Many Zoroastrians cherish fond stories about Iran Shah. “There was a time when a whole sheet of agarwood or oud was offered to the holy atash and the whole town would be fragrant with its aromas. Today, considering agarwood’s unaffordability, the practice has been discontinued,” Rohinton Mehta, a Mumbai sandalwood dealer and senior Parsi, reminisces.

Bomanji Kohinoor, in his late nineties, says faith is his secret to longevity. “The fire temples remind us of our connection with the almighty. It cleanses the soul, rejuvenates the heart and reinstates faith, strength and peace. The prayerful vibe inside the fire temples also nourishes and preserves our ancient faith and its simple teaching that touches the heart-righteousness,” he says.

Mumbai’s revered Anjuman Na Atash Behram, Wadiaji Atash Behram and Banaji Atash Behram to name a few along with several fire temples across Gujarat remain India’s endearing custodians of Iran’s Zoroastrian faith.