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Kavita Kanan Chandra
From gems to jewellery, blankets to blue pottery; Jaipur has it all. There are various upmarket shops to streetside vendors, but it is the old bazaars of the walled city that come alive with shops selling lac bangles to Jaipuri rajais (quilts) to utensils. Jauhari bazaar, Tripolia bazaar, the trio of Bapu bazaar, Nehru bazaar and Indira bazaar to Chhoti Chaupar and Badi Chaupar; you can shop till you drop. But, you need not fret as mouth-watering street food like pyaaz ki kachori, mirch ka pakoda, samosa and patashi (golguppa) will energise you with its hot and spicy flavour accompanied with tangy chutney to add that extra zing. Those with a sweet tooth are more than spoilt for choice with paneer ghevar liberally covered in rabri, lassi in kulhad and lots of laddoos to gorge on.
There might be upscale shops and branded stores in upmarket MI Road, C Scheme, Civil Lines and Raja Park but shopping in old lanes and alleys of the walled city is an experience to cherish. As you stroll, check and compare prices of similar stuff in various shops, pause to admire things on display on street floors and on vendor’s cart, and then, bargain like a professional to get the best price; it’s the whole gamut that excites a street shopper. The old-world charm and shoppers jostling by in the bustling colourful street add to the fun.
In Jaipur, the old bazaars are rather spread out in a much organised grid-like fashion, adding to the convenience of even a tourist. It is to be noted that Jaipur was the first planned city of medieval India built by Kachwaha ruler Sawai Jai Singh II in 18th century AD. It was divided into nine blocks. The nine gates to the walled city are still intact.
The three important gates to the walled city are Chand Pol, Ajmeri Gate and Sanganeri Gate. These open into major markets of Chandpol bazaar, known for marble sculptures, Kishanpol for traditional Indian ittar (perfume) and spices and Johari bazaar for textiles and jewellery. These include leheriya, bandhej, gota-patti and semi-precious gems and costume jewellery.
Colours and combinations
One of the oldest markets in Jaipur, Johari bazaar has rows of shops, which are numbered and painted in attractive pink colour. The shining shimmering lac bangles, bandhani dupattas and sarees, Rajasthani camel and sheep-skin jutties (traditional footwear), fashion jewellery, clothing and other handicrafts are sold in shops.
Come evening and vendors set temporary stalls selling cheap clothing, bangles and bags in the street. You can also buy Rajasthani specialty paneer ghewar sweet and enjoy shudh ghee doused Rajasthani meal at the popular Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar or LMB. Right opposite to LMB is the Moti Sons Jewellers showroom considered as the best in Johari bazaar. The narrow lanes on either side of this bazaar have numerous shops with their own specialty. The Gheewalon ka Rasta, Gopalji ka Rasta and the Haldion ka Rasta have rows and rows of gold, silver, kundan and diamond jewellery shops and also intermittent snacks stalls. From pendants, necklaces, rings to silver utensils, there is so much to splurge on.
If you enter from New Gate, left to Sanganeri gate, you reach Chaura Rasta. It runs parallel to Johari bazaar and is quite broad, as the name suggests. For students, this is the place to go for second-hand educational books. Near a shrine of Shirdi Baba, there is a row of shops, all selling the famous Jaipuri rajai ranging from Rs250 to Rs2000 and above. Joining the two bazaars at the outset is the Bapu bazaar that sells all types of fancy laces, blouses, bangles, home furnishings among other embroidered, hand-block prints, tie and dye fabric and handloom items.
Nehru bazaar
Adjacent to it is Nehru bazaar and Indira bazaar. At the far end of Indira bazaar is the Khajane walon ka Rasta where artisans craft artefacts made of marble and stone. From Nehru bazaar a lane emerges that is choc-a-block with the jangle of bangles where lac bangles are made and sold, called the Maniharon ka Rasta.
Chhoti and Badi Chaupar
However, the most lively and crowded shopping hub in the old city are the Chhoti Chaupar and Badi Chaupar (big square) selling dress materials, bangles, handicrafts, antique furniture and mojris (traditional footwear). Connecting the two squares is the Tripolia bazaar known for metallic kitchenware and pots.
At Sireh Deori bazaar, just outside Hawa Mahal, there are leather, shoes, puppets, quilts and other knick-knacks on sale. On the opposite side of the walled city is Zorawar Singh Gate through which one can exit the walled city towards Amer Palace. There are few big showrooms selling Jaipur’s famous blue pottery that include vases to doorknobs and jewellery.
Shopping in Jaipur requires time, patience and energy but you can have a memorable experience purchasing some unique Rajasthani stuff at reasonable prices. The broad avenues with narrow lanes are in geometric grid and each lane specialising in a craft makes shopping convenient and pleasurable.
Where & what to shop
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