Paighaam of love and friendship

Sumit Paul 

The opening of the Kartarpur corridor should further strengthen the bonhomie, for Pakistan has important Sikh shrines like Nankana Sahib, Panja Sahib at Hasan Abdal, an hour’s drive from Islamabad, and Lyallpur (now Faislabad) gurdwara. Though there have been recent instances of persecution of Sikhs in Pakistan, they have thus far enjoyed freedom. Otherwise, how can a Sikh still have his restaurant near the Faislabad cricket stadium, with inscriptions in Urdu/Gurmukhi and English that jhatka meat is available there! Whenever I visit Pakistan, I make it a point to visit at least one gurdwara, as I love the lyrical recitation of Japji Sahab and ardaas. Despite being an atheist, the inner tranquility and serene ambience of all shrines appeal to me. Many a time, I discuss certain aspects of Shahmukhi (Gurmukhi written in Persian Nastaliq script) with Pakistani granthis and professors of Punjabi religious history at Lahore and Sialkot universities. Persian being my mother-tongue, I can relate to the baanis of Baba Farid and others, who first uttered them in Persian, and after that in Punjabi. I remember having the tastiest langar at a gurdwara at Narayanpura in Karachi. Punjabi culture is palpable in Pakistan. Most people in Pakistan can speak Punjabi, and even when they converse in Urdu, the Punjabi accent is very strong. 

Being a foodie, I love to gorge on Punjabi cuisine. I dare say, the chhole-bhatoore one gets near the telephone exchange in Lahore are the best in the universe. The forever crowded eatery is run by a Sikh gentleman, who also makes the tastiest paranthe with pudina chutney. That taste lingers, and even at Chandni Chowk or Paranthe Wali Gali, I didn’t find paranthas as delicious as made by Kirpal Singh. The late Abdul Qadir, legendary Pakistani leg-spinner, was crazy about Kirpal Singh’s rajma-chawal while Kolkata-born ghazal singer Farida Khanum relishes his aloo di tikki. 

Since I visit Pakistan regularly to teach Islamic theology at its universities, I go to these places for sumptuous Punjabi fare. But, I often feel embarrassed as no Punjabi (even Muslim) restaurant owner lets me pay! The hospitality of Punjabi Sikhs is legendary. This soul-gladdening hospitality is experienced all the more deeply when you interact with the Sikhs of Pakistan. 

Till seven decades ago, we were one. Artificial boundaries have erected pickets of imtiyaaz-o-ta’assub (differences and discrimination) among the people of India and Pakistan. We have a shared history and heritage. To quote Urdu poet Jigar Muradabadi, ‘Unka jo farz hai woh ahl-e-siyasat jaanein/ Mera paighaam mohabbat hai jahaan tak pahunche’ (The political people know their duties and objectives/ All I have is the eternal message of love that I try to disseminate as far as I can). So very true.