How yatra took the Baltal route

KL Noatay

IN 1967, my crew and I were on a Forest Survey of India assignment around Baltal, below Zozila in eastern Kashmir. It was suggested by Signals linesmen that we could visit Amarnath, 10 km above, in about six hours. It was an era when the yatra took four days via the traditional Pahalgam route. 

My next visit to the holy cave took place in 1981. A classmate in Shimla desired to visit the cave. I was posted at Leh at the time. He, along with his family, met me at Baltal. We trekked up and down in eight hours. Children also enjoyed the hike.

In 1990, another friend enquired about a shorter route for the yatra. I jotted down the details and also mailed a copy thereof to The Tribune for the awareness of its readership. It increased awareness and desire for a short route considerably.   

During May-June 1996, the J&K Government was too busy with the Vidhan Sabha elections. The Amarnath yatra was accordingly put on the back burner. Unfortunately, the yatra came under calamitous snowfall. More than 200 yatris lost their lives.

Dreading a repeat of the tragedy, the state government in 1997 introduced certain restrictions about age, health, etc. of yatris, while making registration compulsory against a specified fee. The restrictions and yatra fee were resented by devotees. Many filed writ petitions against the restrictive orders. One Om Prakash Goel in his petition before the Delhi High Court prayed for the opening of the Baltal route also.

A press note dated July 7, 1997, stated that the Delhi High Court would adjudicate on the matter the following day. The government’s opposition to the Baltal route was on the premise of a ‘difficult and risky climb’. I couriered to the court a write-up with photographs about the pluses and minuses of the route and also offered my services for demonstrating its practicality with topo-sheets and aerial photographs obtainable from the Survey of India, Dehradun. The court trusted my submission and through an order dated November 6, 1997, it overruled objections of the government, directing safe passage on the new as well as the traditional route.

My last visit to the cave was in July 1999. I had gone to Kargil to see how our troops were pushing back General Musharraf’s aggressors from atop the Line of Control. Over the years, considerable improvements have been effected for movement via Baltal and Pahalgam. Helicopter service has also been introduced. Moreover, while earlier the yatra lasted only four weeks, it now lasts six weeks (July-August). Needless to say that the Baltal route has lessened the travel time and fatigue of the yatra considerably. Busy executives can also undertake it now without much effect on their business concerns back home. 

Sadly, the government has negated the continuation of this year’s ongoing yatra. Yatris and tourists have been advised to leave the Valley owing to security considerations.