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Purnima Sharma
They are shy, and will run away should they sense an alien presence in their vicinity — visitors are warned beforehand. It is consequently with a sense of excitement and wonder that visitors move into what is regarded as the last home of the Indian wild ass — or the exotic gudkhur, as it is referred to by the locals — at the Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary in the Little Rann of Kutch, Gujarat. The Rann, spread over 4,953 sq km, is part of one of the world’s largest salt desert. Needless to say, its “salt fields” — vast stretches of dry, patchy white land — will take your breath away. While the neighbouring Great Rann has the distinction of being one of the largest salt deserts in the world, its ‘little brother’ is equally spectacular. Driving past the settlements of the Mirs, a banjara tribe, and the Rabariya community, holds out a promise of an interesting experience. It’s fun watching the women of these tribes set up shop within seconds as you stop by. And their persuasive powers ensure you pick up some of their dexterously created handicrafts such as bead bangles, metal earrings and thick hand-bands, etc.
As you go deeper, the barren land of the Rann seems to be undergoing some change, courtesy a better monsoon. While you do see dry, thorny shrubs and small babool trees persisting in this rather inhospitable dry, salty land, there are some small green stretches as well, growing castor, millet and cotton. Centuries ago, the area was fortified, informs our local companion-cum-guide. Built by the Solanki dynasty in the 11th century, it has four gates. And as we drive under the dilapidated Madapol Gate, our guide points out that it is counted among the finest examples of the Maru-Gurjara architecture.
Leaving a Jain temple and the Rajeshwari Mata temple behind, an open, soft-brown expanse, dotted with thorny babools, comes into view. Huge mounds of dry salt look picturesque as they glisten under the harsh sunrays. You feel almost overwhelmed by the deep, enigmatic silence, with just the sound of the wind around. Suddenly, our guide points to some herds of wild asses at some distance. You need to tread softly, for the wild asses can take off sensing 'trouble' and you can't help but gaze in wonder at its charming gallop. And not to forget the speed — the wild ass can run at about 60-80km/hr. And if you can “merge into the background and just watch from afar”, this rather mild-looking animal, with a brown-hued upper body and striking white limbs, presents quite a serene sight.
The Little Rann is also an ornithologist's haven. Flamingos, the huge birds that stand tall over five feet, are another piece de resistance of these salty marshlands. Over two lakh flamingo nests can be found here, adds Pawan Patel, who has been observing and researching the habits of the Rann's avian and other inhabitants for a while now. In winters, the blue-breasted bee-eater, bank myna, pond heron, white-breasted kingfisher and demoiselle cranes from Siberia, among many other migratory birds, make their way here. Animals such as chinkara, Indian gazelle, hyena, black buck and jackal can be spotted here as well.
The Rann is also the land of the Agariyas (agar in Gujarati means salt, hence their name) who have for centuries been doing what they do best — making salt. They make a living extracting the crystalline substance from the salt pans left behind by the receding sea waters after the monsoon. More than 5,000 families live here, mostly in poverty-stricken conditions. Some NGOs are educating their children through mobile schools and also, very importantly, the grown-ups on how to take care of themselves while working with salt.
Fact file
Best time to visit: Winter is the best time to visit the Little Rann of Kutch. Around this time, it’s very pleasant out here, with the temperature in single digit
Getting there: The place is accessible by air, train and road. One can fly from Ahmedabad and Rajkot; train can be taken from Viramgam; and if you are looking for a road trip, then it’s just 120 km from Ahmedabad
Accommodation: There are plenty of cottages, resorts and other options to stay
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