Feast as you fast

Akshita Sethi

It’s no news that Indian festivals are designed for gluttonous eating, swanky outfits and dazzling light-art. Our culturally diverse nation is home to a slew of myths and traditions. Akin to the recurring theme of the victory of good over evil, is the legend behind the Navratra festival, wherein Goddess Durga emerged victorious over Mahishasura, a demonic entity representing egoism. 

AUSTERE AVATAR

Navratra food in North India dons a divine hat; it is strictly vegetarian and nearly saatvik. Most grains are forbidden, use of onion and garlic is restricted and meats are wished a temporary goodbye. Fasting food is called falahari and includes fruits and vegetables such as potato, sweet potato, yam and pumpkin among others; normal salt is replaced with sendha namak or pink Himalayan rock salt. From makhana (popped lotus seed) and singhara (water chestnut) to kuttu and sattu (gramflour), there is an array of ingredients replacing regular cereals. 

Grub fest 

The nine-day celebration is a melting pot of local delicacies with a modern Indian twist. So, while it’s time for religious reflection and fasting for some, the season bears scrumptious delicacies for others. Gone are the days when restaurants wore a deserted look as the season imposed a plethora of dietary restrictions. Vrat ka khana is no longer limited to our home kitchens. Slowly but surely, ironclad principles are making way for versatility and the food industry is proving that sky is the limit.

In this day and age, fasting is no longer synonymous with starvation. Lauding new-age culinary artists, gastronomic connoisseur Sanjeev Kapoor says, “Chefs these days are pushing their creative boundaries in the kitchen to turn fasts into a feast. It’s great to see them use a limited set of ingredients and come up with exciting dishes keeping in mind the customs, traditions and religious sentiments of their patrons.”

Fit for the Gods

Talking about the need to keep the food gourmet yet saatvik, Michelin plated Chef Nishant Choubey explains how he plans to keep the Navratra menu both progressive and sacred, “Asthamrit as an amuse bouche. This is a fusion of nine pure ingredients such as ganga jal, tulsi, jaggery, honey, cow’s milk, banana, ripe mango, yoghurt and chandan.  Then there is a beverage titled Somras,” says Choubey.

FLAVOUR IS KING

With Navratra kicking off the festival season, Chandigarh’s bustling Sector 26 has restaurants offering specialties such as singhade aate ki puri, sookhi chatpati arbi, samak ghee bhat and makhane ki kheer among many others. The idea behind these explicitly crafted menus is to not let people miss out on trying exquisite flavours that they would not try otherwise; for all 

you know, going out to eat during Navratras is the new millennial trend.

The joys of dessert

It is a truth universally acknowledged that everything tastes better with sugar syrup drizzled on it. From apple crumble with singhara atta to paneer malpua, Navratra has its own set of sweet treats. Bringing one such delectable combination for us is Le Cordon Blue-trained pastry chef Bani Nanda who says, “I have developed a coconut and Belgian chocolate pudding cake that is eggless and fits the bill.”

Sago pudding with pomegranate

Ingredients

• ½ cup sago, soaked for 8-10 hours
• 1 cup fresh pomegranate juice
• 3 cups coconut milk
• A few saffron strands
• 1 cup sugar
• A few drops of lemon juice

Method

• Place the sago, coconut milk and saffron strands in a deep non-stick pan and cook till sago becomes transparent and the mixture becomes thick. Add half the sugar and cook till it dissolves.
• Transfer the mixture in eight individual shot glasses and refrigerate for 45- 50 minutes.
• Heat pomegranate juice in another non-stick pan along with the remaining sugar and cook for 4-5 minutes or till the mixture thickens.
• Add lemon juice and mix well and allow to cool.
• Pour the pomegranate mixture on the sago pudding and serve chilled. —Chef Sanjeev Kapoor