Bite worthy

Manpriya Singh 

Restrictions of not using the very flavourful and ubiquitous to kitchen—garlic, onions and tomatoes can be paralyzing for anyone in the food business. But Chef Naveen Handa, the executive chef at JW Marriott, will happily ask you to guess the alternatives they used to get the right flavour that is not just distinct but truly authentic to the families of Kashmiri Pandits in the Valley. 

As the property rolls out Kashmiri Pandit Food Festival, joining in is Chef Rajni Jhinsi, the guest chef, who elaborates on the ingredients that they did and did not use in keeping with the cuisine beyond the Kashmiri Wazwan. 

“There are very subtle yet significant differences between Kashmiri food and food of the Kashmiri Pandits. Apart from the fact that we do not use garlic, onions and tomatoes, our dishes are less stock based. Also, in Kashmiri Pandit cuisine, you’ll find equal number of vegetarian dishes. Otherwise the masalas are the same.” 

All of which reflect in the three menus crafted that will be served on rotational basis. Not quite spicy but rich in spices, what makes the spread from the Valley relevant is the warm and comforting ingredients like clove powder, ginger, asafetida and slow simmering technique of cooking. What she’d absolutely recommend is Kashmiri Matsch, which comprises mutton koftas where koftas are never binded but straightaway slipped into a wok to soak in all the flavours. Apart from the already popular dum aloos, and the yakhni gravy, there’s the very traditional haak that are as inviting as a Punjabi saag or the very Asian pokchoy but with an altogether distinct taste. Mutton Ki Yakhni and Roganjosh will connect at once with non- vegetarians while akshrot chutney and green apple chutney with those who love accompaniments. 

Food, culture & community 

Any cultural upheaval, movement or evolution is the first to reflect in the cuisine, whether that’s been the case with Kashmiri Pandits. She affirms, “Nowadays since there has been a lot of movement to and fro and cross-cultural marriages in the community, other influences in the cuisine have definitely crept in. Our traditional food comprises an elaborate process and is time consuming to prepare. Rogan Josh meat has given way to regular meat in everyday cooking.” 

She adds, “In Kashmiri cuisine we don’t have starters , now at Kashmir weddings don’t be surprised to find chaat counters and paneer tikkas and aloo tikkis.” 

Priced at Rs 1800 plus taxes for a meal for one.  

On from 7.30 pm onwards at JW Marriott—35 till January 13. 

manpriya@tribunemail.com