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Ranjita Biswas
In this age of fast cars, trains, etc. do you want to explore a terrain on feet, or by a horse-drawn buggy, at most? Then come to the Princes’ Islands on the Sea of Marmara, 20 km off Istanbul, where automobiles are banned. Local people call it ‘Adalar’ or ‘The Islands’ as the city does not have any other island around.
It is great destination for a day trip. While locals make a beeline to it on any holiday, especially in summer, tourists often miss it out as Istanbul offers so many other attractions.
The weather is rather gloomy at the start as the ferry leaves the dock but it does not dampen the spirit of Istanbulites. Soon, the sun makes a grand appearance. The blue sea sparkles. Seagulls follow the ferry’s rear to swoop on the fish as the wheels churn up water.
There are nine islands in the Princes’ Islands group. The ferry stops in four of them, but mostly people head to the Büyükada (Great Island), the largest in the group. It is a lovely sight as the ferry approaches the island with houses perched on the slopes of hills. The twin cupolas of the Splendid Palace hotel shine in the sunlight. Soon a clock tower comes into view.
An elegant building in the Ottoman kiosk style dating back to 1899 greets you at the ferry terminal of Iskele Square (dock square). Atile-decorated café is inside with an outdoor terrace. A Tourist Information Office is also located here.
You will find the fayton, a horse-drawn carriage, opposite the Splendid Hotel. There is no other way but to hire one if you want to explore the island, that is, unless you want to walk all the way, both time-consuming and tiring. You can also rent bicycles.
Büyükada is not just a vacation island. It has many historical references as well. During the Byzantine period, many out-of-favour princes and other royalty were exiled here, and later, members of the Ottoman family too — the reason for the islands’ name. Also, after his deportation from the erstwhile Soviet Union in 1929, Leon Trotsky took refuge here for four years.
As the buggy traverses through the winding roads, villas with lovely gardens reminiscent of a bygone era come into view. During the 19th century, the islands became a popular resort for Istanbul’s elite. Their houses are still preserved.
There are several historical buildings in Büyükada, among them the Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage built on a hilltop, said to be Europe’s largest wooden building and second largest in the world. Recently, it was in the news as Europa Nostra, a cultural heritage NGO, included it in the list of endangered buildings to save it from collapse. Built in the 19th century, originally it was planned as a hotel; the six-storey, 220 room architectural treasure served as an orphanage for the Greek Orthodox Church from 1903 to 1964 when the Turkish government shut it down.
The Greek Monastery of St George saddles Büyükada’s two highest hills. It is not far from the Dock Square. One can even walk up there but be warned, the cobbled path is very steep.
The shopping district is full of colour and holiday makers. The air is gay. Pick up knick-knacks of local flavour, if you like. And then, head for some lunch in restaurants lining the seafront area. One of the most fascinating experiences is to check out glass boxes with freshly caught fish put out in front of the restaurants. Have it cooked the way you want. However, keep an eye on the watch as you enjoy the ambience to check on the ferry timings if you want to head back to Istanbul.
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